First off, I have to say I do not use a template for cutting out the fabric, I simply hold the paper piece against the fabric and cut out with an approximate 1/4" seam allowance......I air on the side of generosity with my seam allowance, I personally find with English Paper Pieceing (EPP) that it's better to have too much rather than too little.
Once I've cut out my fabrics, I then glue baste the papers. (I'm really sorry we've just sold out of the papers as I type, but do not fear more 8" Dresden papers are due in to the shop in next week or two, so if you want to reserve some simply get in touch!) I can honestly say that I never thought I would ever use a glue stick when it came to EPP and I think I will ALWAYS hand stitch the papers for hexies, it's part of the process and enjoyment for me......BUT for curves..... well I'm a convert, it makes the job a doddle!!!
So to Glue Baste, simply run a smidge of glue across the top curved edge of the paper. Don't panic, it goes on blue but dries clear. The key I have found is to use just enough to make the fabric stick, don't over glue as it becomes a devil to get the papers out and I'm all for reusing those lots of times! Then, working quite quickly.... with intent fold the fabric over the paper, it will naturally form little pleats.
Then glue both sides in place, leaving the bottom edge unstuck.
Once you have glued all your pieces, (8 blades and the centre circle) Lay them out in an order that you find pleasing. Then work in pairs.
Before we go any further a note on needles and thread. Personally I like to use a Straw needle, I'm using Merchant and Mills needles at the moment....(
coming to the website very soon which you can find HERE) and 50wt Aurifil, 2311 is my colour of choice for this project. My nan taught me a long time ago to use a piece of thread no longer than my elbow to the end of my finger tips and I think this really helps with not getting in a knotty messy muddle.
Once you've threaded your needle and knotted your thread, take your first pair of blades, holding them right sides together and ensuring that the shapes are aligned, insert the needle approximately 1/4" from the top of the curved edge, as shown below. The reason I like to do this, is so that my knot is not near the top edge when it comes to the applique stage, it is buried well out of the way.
* It's hard to describe, but I think the key to invisible stitches is as I've already said, make them small, but try just to nip the fabric, enough so that it is secure, but not taking great big chunks.
Pin the centre circle in place and whip stitch in place.
Pin the dresden to your background fabric, I'm using 9" squares of Bella Bleached White PFD 97, which I will eventually trim back to 8 1/2" squares when I'm ready to piece the quilt top together. I found it best to fold the background fabric in half and then in to quarters and finger press the folds. You can then line up your dresden easily.
Using teeny whip stitches applique using the pressed fold line as a guide in place. You should find that you can easily fold the raw edge of the curves neatly underneath with your needle as you stitch.
If you're not already in The Flirty 30's Club and would like to find out more take a peek HERE.
See you next time, when I will hopefully have not one, but two finishes to share!